Oil & Filter Change
How to change motorcycle oil and the filter yourself. Covers picking a JASO MA2 oil that will not make a wet clutch slip, why the crush washer is single use, correct drain plug torque into an aluminium sump, and reading the level properly so you do not overfill.
Difficulty: Beginner · Time: 30-45 min · Interval: Every 3,000-6,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first (check your manual)
What it costs: $35-70 in parts doing it yourself, against $110-200 at an independent shop — you save $75-130.
Read before you start
- Hot oil causes burns — use gloves and caution
- Use only motorcycle-specific oil (JASO MA rated for wet clutches)
- Never reuse drain plug crush washer
- Dispose of oil properly at recycling center
- Don't overfill — check level on center stand or upright
Tools required
- Drain pan
- Socket/wrench for drain plug
- Oil filter wrench
- Funnel
- Torque wrench
- New crush washer
Typical torque specs
Typical ranges — always confirm against the service manual for your model.
- Oil drain plug: 20-30 Nm typical (check your manual)
- Spin-on oil filter: Hand tight then 3/4 turn, roughly 12-18 Nm (check your manual)
- Cartridge filter cover bolts: 8-12 Nm typical (check your manual)
Step-by-step
- Warm engine for 2-3 minutes to thin oil
- Position bike on center stand or level ground
- Place drain pan under drain plug
- Remove drain plug — let oil drain completely (10-15 min)
- Remove oil filter — more oil will drain
- Apply thin coat of fresh oil to new filter O-ring
- Install new filter — hand tight plus 3/4 turn
- Install new crush washer on drain plug
- Reinstall drain plug — torque to specification
- Fill with correct amount of fresh oil (check manual)
- Run engine for 1-2 minutes, then turn off
- Wait 2 minutes, then check level on sight glass or dipstick
- Add oil if needed to reach upper mark
- Check for leaks around drain plug and filter
- Record mileage for next service interval
Common mistakes
- Reusing the drain plug crush washer. The aluminium or copper washer deforms once to seal. Reused, it weeps, and that is the single most common source of a mystery oil drip. They cost pennies. Fit a new one every time.
- Torquing the drain plug by feel. Aluminium sump threads strip at surprisingly low torque. Most bikes want 20-30 Nm. Use a torque wrench, not a breaker bar.
- Using car oil with friction modifiers in a wet-clutch bike. API energy-conserving automotive oils make wet clutches slip. Use an oil labelled JASO MA or MA2 on the container.
- Checking the level on the side stand. That reads low and tempts you into overfilling, which aerates the oil and pushes it out of the breather. Hold the bike upright or use the centre stand, wait two minutes after running, then read the sight glass.
Questions riders ask
How often should I change motorcycle oil?
Most modern street bikes are on 4,000-6,000 mile intervals with full synthetic, some sport bikes 3,000. Time matters as much as mileage: change it annually even on a bike that barely moves, because acids and condensation accumulate regardless of use.
Do I need motorcycle-specific oil?
If your bike has a wet clutch, which covers nearly everything except BMW boxers, Moto Guzzis and most scooters, then yes. The clutch shares the engine oil, so the oil must be JASO MA or MA2 rated and free of automotive friction modifiers.
What weight oil should I use?
Follow the manual. 10W-40 is the most common motorcycle specification, with 10W-30, 15W-50 and 5W-40 used on particular engines. Do not go thinner than specified, since bearing clearances were designed around the recommended grade.
Should I change the filter every oil change?
Yes. A filter costs $8-15, and running a loaded filter through a second interval risks the bypass valve opening and circulating unfiltered oil straight to the bearings.
Parts for this repair
- Motul 7100 Synthetic Oil (JASO MA2)
- K&N Oil Filter
- Drain Plug Crush Washer Kit